Rock climbing can be broken down into several different categories. All the different types of climbing can be pretty confusing if you’re new to the sport. However, here at Remix Outdoors, we’ve broken it down into the 5 most popular types of rock climbing that you’re likely to find at your local climbing gym or crag.
Bouldering
Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that does not require safety harnesses or ropes. Routes are fairly short and climbers are usually no more than 10-15 ft off the ground. Instead of climbing large cliffs or even mountains, bouldering focuses on small rock outcrops or “boulders” (hence the name).
Since bouldering routes are fairly short, they may only utilize a few holds. However, the most difficult bouldering routes can be very physically demanding, requiring top-notch grip strength and incredible athleticism.
Instead of using ropes and harnesses, climbers may place a pad at bottom of the route in case of a fall and to land on when they’ve reached the top of the route. In the early days, climbers used old mattresses or cushions. However, bouldering-specific pads are now available from most top climbing brands.
Bouldering has a very low barrier to entry because bouldering doesn’t require any special safety gear (except possibly a bouldering pad). This makes it very beginner friendly. It’s the easiest type of climbing to get into – and some say – it’s the hardest to master.
Top Roping
Top roping is a style of climbing where the rope passes from the climber’s harness to an anchor point at the top of the wall before returning to a belayer on the ground. The “belayer” is a person who essentially acts as a counterweight to the person on the wall. They take up the slack as the climber ascends the wall and hold the rope tight if the climber falls. The belay will let out the rope slowly when the climber is ready to descend and be lowered to the ground.
Since top roping requires two people, many indoor gyms have auto-belays that replace the person on the ground. This mechanical device takes up the slack from the rope and slowly releases it when the climber is ready to descend – just like a human belayer.
After bouldering, top roping is the most popular type of climbing today. It’s perfect for beginner to intermediate climbers who want to try longer routes or even hard-core boulderers who want to switch things up.
Lead Climbing
Like top roping, lead climbing also uses a rope and harness. However, instead of attaching the rope to the top of the wall, the climber attaches the rope to the anchor points along the route. As they ascend the wall, the belayer slowly lets out slack. They are also ready to hold the rope tight if the climber falls, just like with top roping
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In lead climbing, the anchor points are usually located several feet (or more) apart. So, if a climber falls before reaching the next anchor point, they may fall a few feet before being caught by the rope. When done correctly, lead climbing can be just as safe as top roping, or even bouldering. However, it requires a higher level of training and practice to be done safely.
There are two main types of lead climbing; Sport Climbing and Traditional climbing (or “trad” climbing).
Sport Climbing
In sport climbing, climbers hook the rope into preinstalled anchors. These anchors are either drilled or screwed into the surface of the wall or rock. As climbers ascend the route they attached the rope to each anchor point with a carabiner and remove them when finished.
Trad Climbing
Trad climbing is similar to sport climbing. However, instead, using anchors that have been screwed or drilled into the wall (or rock) climbers place their own safety devices (anchors) along the wall as they ascend. These anchors are specially designed to grab or wedge into crevices in the rock. Climbers remove the anchors after completing the ascent.
Since Trad climbing anchors hook into natural contours and crevices of the rock, you won’t be able to try it at your local gym. It is a more advanced form of climbing and is usually practiced by experts with years of experience.
Speed Climbing
Unlike bouldering, top roping, and lead climbing, speed climbing places an emphasis on speed and dexterity. The goal of speed climbing is to complete the 49ft (15 meters) route in as little time as possible. The current word record speed climb stands at 5.00 seconds!
Speed climbing routes are standardized worldwide by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This ensures that all climbers can train and compete on an equivalent course.
Since climbers practically fly up the route, speed climbing utilizes an auto belay device that quickly takes up slack faster than any human belayer could.
Free Soloing
Free soloing is the wild west of rock climbing and involves climbing with no safety equipment whatsoever. Instead, the climber must rely on their physical skill and mental determination to avoid a fatal fall. No ropes, no harnesses, and no crash pad at the bottom of the wall to catch you. Unlike bouldering, free solo climbers often climb hundreds, or even thousands of feet without using any safety gear. It is literarily do or die.
Given the inherent danger of free soloing, it has garnered some mixed feelings over the years in the climbing community. Some free solo climbers claim it is a “low risk, high consequence activity” like flying a plane or driving on the freeway and that the thrill is worth the risk. However, climbers will say that free solo climbers are insane – more like daredevils who are gambling with fate. If you’ve ever watched the film Free Solo featuring Alex Honold, you’ll have to agree that, at the very least, free solo climbers share unparalleled determination and dedication.
Whatever side you take, it’s a fact that members of the free solo community (even long-time free solo climbers) die regularly. We’ll make a point to say that we do not recommend anyone try free solo climbing!
Types of Rock Climbing: Grading Scales
Bouldering Grade Scale
There are several grading scales for bouldering, but by far the most common scale is the “V” scale. The V scale starts at V0 and extends indefinitely with the hardest route on the record being graded V17! However, the hardest route you’re likely to meet at your local gym would be around V10.
Generally speaking, routes graded from V0-V3 are considered beginner level, routes graded from V4-V6 are considered intermediate, and V7 and above are getting into the expert category.
Outdoor bouldering uses the same grading scale as indoor bouldering. However, indoor gyms generally set their routes “softer” than an equivalent outdoor route. For example, a V7 at a gym would probably only be considered in the V5 range by an experienced outdoor boulderer.
Top Roping and Lead Climbing Grade Scale
Most rock climbing routes, including top roping and lead climbing routes, are graded using the Yosemite Decimal System (or YDS for short). This grading is especially prevalent in the U.S. but can be found all around the world.
Each YDS grading is made of three parts. Let’s take the grade 5.11c as an example.
In this case, the “5” refers to the Class of the ascent. Classes actually start at 1, which would be a flat hike and progresses to “5” which is a vertical climb. Obviously, all the climbs you’ll find out there will fall into the “5” category.
The “.11” refers to the difficulty of the climb and goes from “2” to “15”. The higher the number, the more difficult the climb. For example, a route graded as 5.1 would be perfect for beginners, while a route graded as 5.15 would be pro-level.
The letter following the grade (in this case a “c”) is used to further specify the difficulty of the route and can be a, b, c, or d. For example, a 5.11b would be slightly more difficult than are example route, which is a 5.11c.
The Best Type of Rock Climbing for Beginners
Different types of rock climbing offer unique advantages to beginners. On the one hand, bouldering is great for beginners because it’s very minimalistic and has a low barrier to entry. New climbers can focus on climbing without the distraction of a rope and harness. Bouldering is also better for beginners who are afraid of heights and would rather ease into things than go straight to the top roping wall.
On the other hand, climbing with a rope and harness is also a good option for beginners – specifically top roping. For some beginners, climbing with a rope and harness brings a sense of security. Also, beginner-level top roping routes are generally easier to climb than the equivalent bouldering route because the belayer below can hold the rope tight to give the climber a rest. So, so keep that in mind if you’re looking for a more relaxed climb.
Types of Rock Climbing: Summary
The 7 most popular types of rock climbing are bouldering, top roping, lead climbing, speed climbing, and free solo climbing. Each type of rock climbing is similar but is characterized by the types of gear (or lack thereof) and terrain being climbed. We recommend beginners stick with bouldering or top roping, but the most important part of climbing is to give it a try!
Thanks for reading to the end! We hope this read inspired you to give climbing a try and start your next outdoor adventure! Don’t forget to check out our other climbing guides while you’re here!
