Looking to buy a pair of rock climbing shoes but not sure if they should hurt your feet? Climbing shoe sizing can be one of the most difficult things to get right for beginner rock climbers. Luckily, we’re here to help. Many new climbers wear climbing shoes that hurt because they are too tight, but it shouldn’t be that way. We wrote this guide to help new climbers find a pain-free climbing shoe fit without sacrificing performance on the wall.
How Much Should Climbing Shoes Hurt Your Feet?
Climbing shoes are designed to have a snug fit in order to provide ideal grip and control while climbing. However, they should not be so tight that they cause extreme pain or discomfort.
When trying on climbing shoes, try to choose a size that is snug. While a snug fit is important, climbing shoes should not cause extreme pain or discomfort. The shoes should apply pressure evenly across your foot without pinching or crushing your toes. You should be able to wiggle your toes and move your foot around comfortably.
You should feel a bit of pressure on your toes and the sides of your foot, but you should still be able to wiggle your toes and move your foot around ever so slightly. If your toes are curled or your foot is cramping, then the shoes are probably too small, especially if you’re new to rock climbing. More advanced climbers can get away with a very tight fit, but only after their feet have gotten used to climbing.
It’s also important to note that climbing shoes can take some time to break in and stretch out a bit. So, even if they feel a bit tight when you first try them on, they may become more comfortable after a few climbing sessions.
Ultimately, the level of discomfort you can tolerate will vary depending on your personal preferences and the type of climbing you’re doing. Some climbers prefer a tighter fit for better performance on difficult routes, while others prioritize comfort for longer sessions or multi-pitch climbs. So, it’s important to find a balance that works for you and your climbing goals
Fit Guidelines to Prevent a Painful Fit.
We wrote an entire article on how to size climbing shoes correctly. So, be sure to check that out – especially if you’re buying climbing shoes for the first time. If you’re in a rush, here are the main points to keep in mind.
Use the 0.5-7 size-down rule
As a general rule, look for a shoe that is about a 0.5-1 size smaller than their street shoes. Your toes should be barely touching the front of the shoes and should not be bent or crushed. Your feet shouldn’t hurt while wearing the shoes, but they should feel tight and even a little uncomfortable. This fit provides a good balance of comfort and tightness that will suit beginners well for all types of rock climbing.
Don’t buy shoes that hurt your feet
While a snug fit is important, climbing shoes should not cause extreme pain or discomfort. The shoes should apply pressure evenly across your foot without pinching or crushing your toes. You should be able to wiggle your toes and move your foot around comfortably. As your climbing skills progress, you may try a slightly uncomfortable
Aim for minimal to no dead space.
Dead space refers to areas inside the shoe where there is no contact between your foot and the shoe. Dead space can create instability and reduce the shoe’s performance. Climbing shoes should have minimal to no dead space, particularly in the toe box area, to ensure a secure fit and maximum performance.
A Note On Shoe Shape
Climbing shoes come in dozens of different shapes but they all fall into these two main categories.
Traditional
Traditional-shaped climbing shoes are flat and have the closest feel to normal shoes. You can walk in them (although it may be uncomfortable to do so) and wear them for a while without hurting your feet. Traditional shoes are the best option for new climbers in our opinion and are the most comfortable to wear for extended periods of time.
The Black Diamond Momentum is a popular example of a traditionally shaped climbing shoe.
Aggressive
Aggressive shoes are easy to spot because of their hooked, talon-like shape. They’re perfect for getting a maximum grip on tiny footholds but are extremely uncomfortable to walk in. Most climbers who use these types of shoes will put them on right before they start a route and take them off as soon as they are finished. Aggressive shoes can be pretty uncomfortable for new climbers (or any climber actually). However, advanced climbers sacrifice comfort to get maximum performance and grip
The La Sportiva Solution is a good example of an aggressive climbing shoe that is popular with more advanced climbers.
Climbing Shoe Size Calculator to Get a Pain-free Fit
Using a climbing shoe size calculator is a great way to get a feel for what size climbing shoe to try – especially if you’ve never bought a pair before. Sizing varies drastically across climbing shoe brands. Some tend to run small and others run large. For instance, what one company calls a size 10, might be more like a size 8 to another company.
However, the sizing within one brand is usually consistent. So, for instance, if you try on a pair of La Sportiva shoes at the store, you should be able to get a feel for what size you need if you go with one of their shoes. However, Scarpa may size their shoes differently and you may need a different size if you go with them.
Wrapping it Up
Climbing shoes should fit snugly to provide good precision and control while climbing. However, they should not cause extreme pain or discomfort. Find a pair of shoes that apply pressure evenly across your foot without pinching or crushing your toes and allow you to move your foot around slightly. Climbing shoes should have minimal to no dead space, particularly in the toe box area. Otherwise, you’ll risk slipping off very small footholds on the wall.
Overall, a well-fitting climbing shoe strikes a balance between snugness and comfort, providing the necessary support and control while allowing for freedom of movement.
We hope this read inspired you to give climbing a try and start your next outdoor adventure! If you have further questions about sizing your climbing shoes, leave a comment below and we’ll be happy to help. Also check out our guides to how much rock climbing costs and are hiking with poles worth it?
