Bouldering and rock climbing are very similar. In fact, sometimes the two terms are used interchangeably – especially by folks new to the world of climbing. However, they are actually quite different and refer to two different spectrums of the climbing world and community. We’re here to settle the bouldering vs. rock climbing debate once and for all!
What is Bouldering?
Bouldering is a type of climbing that does not require safety harnesses or ropes. Bouldering routes are usually fairly short and climbers are usually no more than 10-15 ft off the ground. Instead of climbing large cliffs or even mountains, bouldering focuses on small rock outcrops or “boulders” (hence the name).
Bouldering routes are fairly short and may only utilize a few holds. However, the most difficult bouldering routes can be very physically demanding, requiring top-notch grip strength and incredible athleticism.
Instead of using ropes and harnesses, climbers may place a pad at bottom of the route in case of a fall and to land on when they’ve reached the top of the route. In the early days, climbers used old mattresses or cushions. However, bouldering-specific pads are now available from most top climbing brands.
Because bouldering doesn’t require any special safety gear (except possibly a bouldering pad) it has a very low barrier to entry. This makes it very beginner friendly. It’s the easiest type of climbing to get into – and some say – it’s the hardest to master.
What is Rock Climbing?
Technically speaking, the term rock climbing can refer to any type of climbing and you’ll often hear it used in that way. However, within the climbing community, when people say rock climbing they are referring to any type of climbing that uses ropes, harnesses, and other safety equipment. This is the definition we’re using in this article. Unlike bouldering, rock climbing involves long routes (20ft and up) that necessitate the use of safety equipment.
Generally speaking (but not always) rock climbing routes are not as strenuous as bouldering routes. Whereas bouldering focuses on athleticism and short-term busts of energy, rock climbing requires endurance and technique. Much like sprinting vs running a marathon.
There are several subcategories that fall under the rock climbing designation. Here are some common ones you may encounter at the local climbing gym or wall.
Rock Climbing – Top Roping
Top roping is a style of climbing where the rope passes from the climber’s harness to an anchor point at the top of the wall before returning to a belayer on the ground. The “belayer” is a person who essentially acts as a counterweight to the person on the wall. They take up the slack as the climber ascends the wall and hold the rope tight if the climber falls. The belay will let out the rope slowly when the climber is ready to descend.
Since top roping requires two people, many indoor gyms have auto-belays that replace the person on the ground. This mechanical device takes up the slack from the rope and slowly releases it when the climber is ready to descend – just like a human belayer.
After bouldering, top roping is the most popular type of climbing today. It’s perfect for beginner to intermediate climbers who want to try longer routes or even hard-core boulderers who want to switch things up.
Rock Climbing – Lead Climbing
Like top roping, lead climbing also uses a rope and harness. However, instead of attaching the rope to the top of the wall, the climber attaches the rope to the anchor points along the route. As they ascend the wall, the belayer slowly lets out slack and is ready to hold the rope tight if the climber falls.
In lead climbing, the anchor points are usually located several feet (or more) apart. So, if a climber falls before reaching the next anchor point, they may fall a few feet before being caught by the rope. When done correctly, lead climbing can be just as safe as top roping, or even bouldering. However, it requires a high level of discipline and expertise.
There are two main types of lead climbing; Sport Climbing and Traditional climbing (or “trad” climbing).
In sport climbing, climbers hook the rope into preinstalled anchors that are either drilled or screwed into the surface of the wall or rock. As climbers ascend the route they attached the rope to each anchor point with a carabiner and remove them when finished.
Trad climbing is similar to sport climbing. However, instead, using anchors that have been screwed or drilled into the wall (or rock) climbers place their own safety devices (anchors) along the wall as they ascend. These anchors are specially designed to grab or wedge into crevices in the rock and have a carbine attached to hook into. Climbers remove the anchors after completing the ascent.
Since Trad climbing anchors hook into natural contours and crevices of the rock, you won’t be able to try it at your local gym. It’s generally considered a more advanced form of lead climbing and is reserved for experts.
Bouldering vs. Rock Climbing: Grades
If you’ve been to a climbing gym before, one of the first differences you’ll notice (besides the length and height of the routes!) is the way the routes are graded. Grading refers to how the difficulty of each route is measured (or “graded”) Different routes are graded differently depending on how easy or difficult they are to climb.
There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to grading how hard a particular route is to climb. At indoor gyms, the person putting up the climbing holds (or “setting” the route) will assign the route a difficulty based on their past climbing experience. After climbing a new outdoor route, several climbers will come to a consensus before assigning it a grade.
Bouldering Grading Scale
There are several grading scales for bouldering, but by far the most common scale is the “V” scale. The V scale starts at V0 and extends indefinitely with the hardest route on the record being graded V17! However, the hardest route you’re likely to meet at your local gym would be around V10.
Generally speaking, routes graded from V0-V3 are considered beginner level, routes graded from V4-V6 are considered intermediate, and V7 and above are getting into the expert category.
Outdoor bouldering uses the same grading scale as indoor bouldering. However, indoor gyms generally set their routes “softer” than an equivalent outdoor route. For example, a V7 at a gym would probably only be considered in the V5 range by an experienced outdoor boulderer.
Rock Climbing Grading Scale
Most rock climbing routes, including top roping and lead climbing routes, are graded using the Yosemite Decimal System (or YDS for short). This grading is especially prevalent in the U.S. but can be found all around the world.
Each YDS grading is made of three parts. Let’s take the grade 5.11c as an example.
In this case, the “5” refers to the Class of the ascent. Classes actually start at 1, which would be a flat hike and progresses to “5” which is a vertical climb. Obviously, all the climbs you’ll find out there will fall into the “5” category.
The “.11” refers to the difficulty of the climb and goes from “2” to “15”. The higher the number, the more difficult the climb. For example, a route graded as 5.1 would be perfect for beginners, while a route graded as 5.15 would be pro-level.
The letter following the grade (in this case a “c”) is used to further specify the difficulty of the route and can be a, b, c, or d. For example, a 5.11b would be slightly more difficult than are example route, which is a 5.11c.
Bouldering vs. Rock Climbing: Which is Better for Beginners?
Bouldering and rock climbing both offer unique advantages to beginners. On the one hand, bouldering is great for beginners because it’s very minimalistic and has a low barrier to entry. New climbers can focus on climbing without the distraction of a rope and harness. Bouldering is also better for beginners who are afraid of heights and would rather ease into things than go straight to the top roping wall.
On the other hand, rock climbing is also a good option for beginners – specifically top roping. For some beginners, climbing with a rope and harness brings a sense of security. Also, beginner-level top roping routes are generally easier to climb than the equivalent bouldering route because the belayer below can hold the rope tight to give the climber a rest. So, so keep that in mind if you’re looking for a more relaxed climb.
Bouldering vs. Rock Climbing: Which is Better?
It’s the classic debate among climbers everywhere. Which is better; Bouldering or rock climbing? Bouldering fans will point out the minimalist aspect of the sport and the athleticism required while fans of rock climbing will say that the endurance and high-risk aspects give more of a thrill.
However, there’s no objective way to say one variety of climbing is better than another. In the end, it comes down to personal preference.
Wrapping it All Up
Now that we’ve covered bouldering vs rock climbing it’s up to you to decide which one to try next! Although the two terms are often used interchangeably, most seasoned climbers know that bouldering doesn’t require safety equipment because of the relatively short routes. However, rock climbing refers to climbing that requires safety equipment, like ropes and a harness.
Thanks for reading this far! We hope you found this article informative and helpful! Here at Remix outdoors, we’re working to build the best guides and reviews in the outdoor industry. Check out our home page for more content related to the world of the outdoors.
