Looking to buy a pair of rock climbing shoes but not sure how they should fit? Climbing shoe sizing can be one of the most difficult things to get right for beginner rock climbers. Luckily, we’re here to help with the ultimate guide to rock climbing shoe fit. We’ll cover everything you need to keep in mind when you’re shopping for climbing shoes. No matter what type of rock climbing you enjoy, you’ll be ready to hit the climbing wall with confidence.
Where to Buy Rock Climbing Shoes
Since rock climbing is a mostly niche sport, you won’t be able to swing by your local shoe store or sporting goods store and pick up a pair of climbing shoes. Most mainstream stores don’t sell them, and if they did their staff might not be qualified to help you find a pair that fits properly. Your best bet is to look for specialty outfitter stores that specialize in outdoor gear.
REI is a great option with locations in most major areas of the US. If you have other outfitter shops in your area, try giving them a call and ask if they carry rock climbing shoes in-store.
Another great place to buy rock climbing shoes is online. Since you won’t be able to actually try the shoes on before you buy, this can be a little more tricky than buying in person. If you’re shopping for climbing shoes online, you’ll probably need to order a few and return the ones that don’t fit.
How Should Climbing Shoes Fit?
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The way your rock climbing shoes should fit is determined by two main things – your experience level and the type of climbing you’ll be doing.
Experience Level
If you’re new to rock climbing or have only been climbing for only a few months, we recommend focusing on comfort over performance when buying your first pair of climbing shoes. Most beginner and intermediate routes don’t require an extremely tight-fitting shoe. So, you’re better of going with a shoe that fits comfortably so you can focus on building technique and strength.
As your skills progress, your feet will start to get used to your new shoes. Once you’re ready to go with a tighter fit, you’ll be able to do so without hurting your feet.
Type of Climbing
Most rock climbers prefer a specific type of fit depending on the type of climbing they do. Generally speaking, your shoes should have a looser fit if you’ll be doing longer climbs like top roping or lead climbing. These types of climbing focus on endurance, and wearing a tight, uncomfortable shoe is more a hindrance than a help.
If you’re bouldering, it’s best to go for a tighter fit since the moves can be more difficult and the footholds can seem microscopic. If your shoes are too loose, you might not be able to really dig in on smaller foot and toe holds.
Taking all this into consideration – were recommend new climbers go with a shoe that is about a 0.5-1 size smaller than their street shoes. Your toes should be barely touching the front of the shoes and should not be bent or crushed. Your feet shouldn’t hurt while wearing the shoes, but they should feel tight and even a little uncomfortable. This fit provides a good balance of comfort and tightness that will suit beginners well for all types of rock climbing.
Climbing Shoe Fit Tips
Socks vs No Socks?
It’s a common question from new climbers – should you wear socks with your climbing shoes?
If you’re renting shoes at the climbing gym it’s not a bad idea to wear socks for hygiene reasons. However, if you’re buying your own pair of shoes, we recommend sizing them without rocks. Most climbers wear their shoes without socks so they can get a better feel for the footholds.
Velcro Vs Laces?
Lace-up climbing shoes are a great option if you’re going with a looser fit and will be wearing the shoes for an extended period of time. However, velcro shoes are easier to take on and off. This is a big plus if you’re going with a tighter/more aggressive fit and plan to take your shoes off between routes.
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Overall, we recommend going with a velcro shoe. It may feel like you’re going back to your kindergarten days every time you put them on, but it really is more convenient and you’ll thank yourself later.
Shoe Stretch
Leather climbing shoes tend to stretch significantly after the first few uses whereas shoes made from synthetic materials tend to hold their size better. Both materials are great options. However, one plus of leather shoes is that they will form around your foot as they stretch and get broken in.
If you go with leather shoes, just pick something that fits slightly tighter at first to account for stretch.
Shoe Shape
Climbing shoes come in dozens of different shapes but they all fall into these two main categories.
Traditional
Traditional-shaped climbing shoes are flat and have the closest feel to normal shoes. You can walk in them (although it may be uncomfortable to do so) and wear them for a while without hurting your feet. Traditional shoes are the best option for new climbers in our opinion.
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The Black Diamond Momentum is a popular example of a traditionally shaped climbing shoe.
Aggressive
Aggressive shoes are easy to spot because of their hooked, talon-like shape. They’re perfect for getting a maximum grip on tiny footholds but are extremely uncomfortable to walk in. Most climbers who use these types of shoes will put them on right before they start a route and take them off as soon as they are finished. Aggressive shoes are not ideal for new climbers but can be a good upgrade for those starting to climb more advanced routes.
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The La Sportiva Solution is a good example of an aggressive climbing shoe that is popular with more advanced climbers.
Climbing Shoe Size Calculators
Using a climbing shoe size calculator is a great way to get a feel for what size climbing shoe to try – especially if you’ve never bought a pair before. Sizing varies drastically across climbing shoe brands. Some tend to run small and others run large. For instance, what one company calls a size 10, might be more like a size 8 to another company.
However, the sizing within one brand is usually consistent. So, for instance, if you try on a pair of La Sportiva shoes at the store, you should be able to get a feel for what size you need if you go with one of their shoes. However, Scarpa may size their shoes differently and you may need a different size if you go with them.
Climbing Shoe Fit: Conclusion
Finding the right climbing shoe fit can seem daunting – especially for beginners. Follow the tips and guidelines we’ve laid out here to get your best fit. Going with 0.5-1 sizes below your street shoe size is a good place to start.
We hope this read inspired you to give climbing a try and start your next outdoor adventure! If you have further questions about sizing your climbing shoes, send us an email at [email protected] and we’d be happy to help.
Don’t forget to check out our other climbing guides while you’re here!