Bouldering can seem intimidating to new climbers – especially those who are used to traditional rock climbing harnesses and safety equipment. Although falls are inevitable when bouldering, they don’t have to be scary or dangerous. We’ve put together a few key pointers to ensure you’re using the proper bouldering fall technique and equipment to stay safe at the crag!
Before We Start – What is Bouldering?
Bouldering is a type of climbing that does not require safety harnesses or ropes. Bouldering routes are usually fairly short and climbers are usually no more than 10-15 ft off the ground. Instead of climbing large cliffs or even mountains, bouldering focuses on small rock outcrops or “boulders” (hence the name). Bouldering routes are fairly short and may only utilize a few holds. However, the most difficult bouldering routes can be very physically demanding, requiring top-notch grip strength and incredible athleticism.
Instead of using ropes and harnesses, climbers place a crash pad at bottom of the route in case of a fall. In the early days of bouldering, climbers used old mattresses or cushions. However, bouldering-specific pads are now available from most top climbing brands.
Because bouldering doesn’t require any special safety gear (except possibly a bouldering pad) it has a very low barrier to entry. This makes it very beginner friendly. It’s the easiest type of climbing to get into – and some say – it’s the hardest to master. However, it’s important to use proper safety and falling techniques when bouldering to prevent injury to yourself and to others.
Bouldering Safety: Before You Climb
The majority of bouldering falling accidents and injuries occur because of poor preparation. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Empty Your Pockets
The last thing you want while bouldering is to fall onto a sharp object in your pocket. Be sure to take your phone, wallet, and any other items out of your pocket before mounting the wall.
Check for Hazards in Your Fall Zone
It may seem like common sense but ALWAYS check for hazards around you before starting up a route. The last thing you want is a loose water bottle or backpack underneath you waiting to cause a sprained ankle. Take a look around (and up) to ensure you’re leaving adequate room for climbers in your fall zone and there aren’t any bystanders who will be in the way if you come off the wall.
If you’re climbing outdoors, check for any rocks or roots in your landing zone that could a rough landing. Clear any loose or damp leaves from your fall zone that could cause slips or falls.
Use a Crash Pad (or Two)
Whether you’re climbing outdoors or at the gym, it’s important to always use a crash pad.
Most climbing gyms have permanent crash pads installed at the base of the climbing walls, but if you’re climbing outdoors you’ll need to bring your own. The crash pad is a must because it will help cushion your fall and provide an even landing area in the event of a fall or if you jump down off the wall at the end of a route.
Crash pads are even more important when climbing outdoors because they help cover up sharp rock and roots in the landing zone that would make for a very dangerous landing zone.
Understand the Bouldering Route
Before you start climbing, take a few minutes to survey the route and understand where it starts and ends so you can position the bouldering pad correctly. Does the route veer off to one side or the other? Is there an overhang that could cause you to fall several feet back from the base of the wall?
Most indoor climbing gyms have pads covering all the floors, so this may not be an issue. However, outdoor climbers may only be able to carry one or two pads so it’s important they understand where they need to be placed.
Bouldering Safety: On the Wall
Know Your Limits
The most dangerous bouldering falls are those that happen unexpectedly or in an uncontrolled manner. So, if you’re feeling your grip start to slip it’s sometimes best to jump down onto the pad and take a breather rather than waiting until your fingers give out completely. That way, you’ll have more control over how you fall and greatly reduce your risk of injury.
It’s rare for experienced climbers to fall unexpectedly because they know their limits and they know when it’s time to bail.
Use a Spotter
A spotter is someone who stands below the climber to ensure the bouldering pad is placed correctly and to help in the event of a fall. If an unexpected fall happens, the spotter will try to guide the climber to the pad as they fall and ensure they land on on the crash pad. For indoor bouldering routes a spotter may not be necessary if the route is not too tall and the floor is adequately padded. However, having a spotter is a must if you plan to do any outdoor bouldering.
Spotting is an art in and of itself – check out this article for an in-depth look at spotting technique.
Bouldering Safety: Falling off the Wall
Falling happens to everyone who’s ever tried bouldering. Even if you’re a perfect climber and flash every route you climb, you’ll still have to bail off the wall onto the crash pad below at the end of the route. Here’s how to do it safely.
Scope Out the Landing
It will be impossible to scope out the landing zone before an uncontrolled or unexpected fall. However, if you’re bailing off the wall or simply jumping down at the end of a climb, take a split second to check that your landing zone is still clear. If you’re bouldering outdoors, check that the crash pad is still positioned correctly and that your spotter is ready.
Don’t Stick the Landing
When you fall while bouldering, it’s important to let the crash pad absorb as much of the impact as possible. Instead of landing on your feet and maintaining an upright position, try to land on your feet with your knees bent and roll onto your back or side on the crash pad. This will transfer most of the energy from the fall into the crash pad – rather than your feet and legs.
Check out this video for a great visual of what proper falling technique looks like.
DON’T Brace with Your Arms
Last but not least, NEVER try to brace your fall with your arms. Doing so will set you up for a bad sprain or even a broken arm. Instead, tuck your arms against your chest and let the pad absorb the energy from your fall for – that’s why it’s there after all. Our arms are stiff, and rigid which makes them terrible shock absorbers.
Wrapping it up
Although falls are inevitable when bouldering, they don’t have to be scary or dangerous. Using proper safety and falling technique will greatly reduce your risk of injury if you take a fall while bouldering and will make you more confident while on the wall.
Thanks for reading to the end! We hope you found this article informative and helpful. Here at Remix outdoors, we’re working to build the best guides and reviews in the outdoor industry so you can begin your next outdoor adventure. Check out our home page for more content related to the world of the outdoors.
