You’ve decided to take the plunge (er, climb) and learn about rock climbing? You came to the right place. Here at Remix Outdoors, we’re ready to answer the most common questions we hear from rock climbing beginners. Keep reading to learn the ropes so you can hit the wall or crag with confidence!
What is Rock Climbing?
The overall concept of rock climbing is very simple: find a vertical rock face that can’t be easily scaled and figure out a way to climb it. Over time, people have come up with more sophisticated (and safe) ways of climbing, but the underlying principle is the same. Some climbing routes may be longer than others, some may be more difficult than others, and some routes may require a different type of gear than others, but they all stem from the same objective.
Eventually, people started looking for ways to make rock climbing more accessible. In the 1970s, modern climbing holds began to take shape as dedicated climbers started fashioning holds wood strips and gluing them on a man-made wall. However, it wasn’t until 1983 that the first “modern” climbing gym opened in Seattle, Washington, and rock climbing as most people know it began. Fast forward to today and the vast majority of rock climbing is done indoors, on man-made walls and holds.
How Does Rock Climbing Work?
Most rock climbers begin climbing at the bottom of the wall and follow a predetermined route up the wall. The route either ends at the top of the wall or at a point partway up the wall. Rock climbing routes come in all shapes and sizes; from short bouldering routes at the gym that are no more than 10 ft. off the ground to massive cliffs that are thousands of feet tall.
If the route is high enough, the climber will use appropriate safety gear (rope, harness, etc.) to keep them safe. The rope is fastened to anchor points or bolts along the route to keep so the climber is safe if they slip or fall. Then, when the climber finishes the route they will use the rope and harness to rappel back to the ground. If the route ends at the top of the wall or cliff (think El Capitan in Yosemite) the climber may choose to hike back to the base camp instead of ascending back down the wall.
Most rock climbing today is done in specially designed climbing gyms that use artificial plastic holds that mimic the look and feel of real rock. Although outdoor rock climbing brings its own challenges, indoor climbing is very similar to outdoor climbing and is the perfect way to hone your skills.
Is Rock Climbing Safe?
It’s the big question most beginner rock climbers ask – is it safe? The answer is – yes. As long as the proper safety rules are followed and the correct gear is used, rock climbing is just as safe as any other sport today. Rock climbing ropes, harnesses, and anchors are incredibly safe and are held to very strict safety regulations.
If it’s your first time at the climbing gym, don’t worry. The staff will teach you all the key safety guidelines before you even hit the wall and will be more than happy to answer any questions that come up. If you’re rock climbing outdoors for the first time, make sure to take along someone who’s done it before and knows the ropes (pun intended).
Where Do You Rock Climb?
We recommend rock climbing beginners start at their local climbing gym. There, you’ll be able to meet other local climbers and ease your way in. A quick google search will help you find the closest gym – you might be surprised by how many are near you! Outdoor rock climbing, on the other hand, can be done on any large rock or boulder – from the biggest peaks in Yosemite valley to the car-sized rocks in your local backyard.
Going to the climbing gym for the first time can be intimidating – we’ve been there! It’s easy to look at other folks flying up the wall and feel like an outsider! Just remember that they were in your shoes at some point too. Instead of feeling intimidated, take a chance to ask more experienced climbers questions – most will love to share their knowledge. With a few weeks or months of consistent effort, you’ll soon be climbing routes that seemed impossible before!
Types of Rock Climbing
As you’ve probably picked up, rock climbing can be broken down into several different categories. All the different types of climbing can be pretty confusing if you’re new to the sport. However, there are really only a few types you’re likely to encounter. Here’s a quick overview of the 5 most popular types of rock climbing that you’re likely to find at your local climbing gym or crag.
Bouldering
Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that does not require safety harnesses or ropes. Routes are fairly short and climbers are usually no more than 10-15 ft off the ground. Instead of climbing large cliffs or even mountains, bouldering focuses on small rock outcrops or “boulders” (hence the name). Instead of using ropes and harnesses, climbers may place a pad at bottom of the route.
Bouldering has a very low barrier to entry because it doesn’t require any special safety gear (except possibly a bouldering pad). This makes it very beginner friendly. It’s the easiest type of climbing to get into – and some say – it’s the hardest to master.
Top Roping
Top roping is a style of climbing where a rope passes from the climber’s harness to an anchor point at the top of the wall before returning to a belayer on the ground. The “belayer” is a person who essentially acts as a counterweight to the person on the wall. They take up the slack as the climber ascends the wall and hold the rope tight if the climber falls. The belay will let out the rope slowly when the climber is ready to descend and be lowered to the ground.
After bouldering, top roping is the most popular type of climbing today. It’s perfect for beginner to intermediate climbers who want to try longer routes or even hard-core boulderers who want to switch things up.
Lead Climbing
Like top roping, lead climbing also uses a rope and harness. However, instead of attaching the rope to the top of the wall, the climber attaches the rope to the anchor points along the route. As they ascend the wall, the belayer slowly lets out slack. They are also ready to hold the rope tight if the climber falls, just like with top roping
In lead climbing, the anchor points are usually located several feet (or more) apart. So, if a climber falls before reaching the next anchor point, they may fall a few feet before being caught by the rope. Overall, lead climbing is a more advanced form of climbing than bouldering or top roping and is usually practiced by experts with years of experience.
Speed Climbing
Unlike bouldering, top roping, and lead climbing, speed climbing places an emphasis on speed and dexterity. The goal of speed climbing is to complete the 49ft (15 meters) route in as little time as possible. The current word record speed climb stands at 5.00 seconds!
Since climbers practically fly up the route, speed climbing utilizes an automatic belay device that quickly takes up slack faster than any human belayer could.
Free Soloing
Free soloing is the wild west of rock climbing and involves climbing with no safety equipment whatsoever. Instead, the climber must rely on their physical skill and mental determination to avoid a fatal fall. No ropes, no harnesses, and no crash pad at the bottom of the wall to catch you. Unlike bouldering, free solo climbers often climb hundreds, or even thousands of feet without using any safety gear. It is literarily a do-or-die situation!
Keep in mind, it’s a fact that members of the free solo community (even long-time free solo climbers) die regularly. We’ll make a point to say that we do not recommend anyone try free solo climbing!
Best Type of Rock Climbing for Beginners
Different types of rock climbing offer unique advantages to beginners. On the one hand, bouldering is great for beginners because it’s very minimalistic and has a low barrier to entry. New climbers can focus on climbing without the distraction of a rope and harness. Bouldering is also better for beginners who are afraid of heights and would rather ease into things than go straight to the top roping wall.
On the other hand, climbing with a rope and harness is also a good option for beginners – specifically top roping. For some beginners, climbing with a rope and harness brings a sense of security. Also, beginner-level top roping routes are generally easier to climb than the equivalent bouldering route because the belayer below can hold the rope tight to give the climber a rest. So, so keep that in mind if you’re looking for a more relaxed climb.
Overall, we recommend that rock climbing beginners start off with bouldering. That way, they can stay completely in their comfort zone while they learn the basic climbing techniques and build up their grip strength.
Rock Climbing for Beginners: Terms
Here are a few common rock climbing terms and phrases you might hear at the climbing gym. Check out this glossary from REI for dozens more!
Beta – Information about a climb or route and how the moves should be carried out.
Flash – Climbing a route from start to finish on your first attempt.
Barndoor – To lose one’s balance and swing sideways out from the rock or wall.
Carabiner – Metal (usually aluminum loop) with a latch (or “gate”) on one side. Used to secure rope and gear.
Dyno – A climbing move in which the climber lunges or leaps off the wall and onto the next hold
Campus – To climb a route using only one’s hands and no feet.
Wrapping It All up
Rock climbing started as a simple concept and has grown into a worldwide sport with many variations and categories. If you’re just starting out, stick with it and you’ll soon be climbing routes that seemed impossible before. Go to your local climbing gym and meet some fellow climbers and join the community. We hope this read inspired you to give climbing a try and start your next outdoor adventure! Don’t forget to check out our other climbing guides while you’re here!
